Cut
Prior to the 14th century, the technology didn't exist to cut diamonds, so they were polished into a rounded shape or cabochon. A century later, they were being sharpened into points. Diamonds from the start of the 17th century to the end of the 19th century were rose-cut -- a flat-based curve consisting of 24 facets. Modern diamonds are brilliant cut with 58 facets and a pointed base.
Setting
In Medieval and Renaissance jewelery, diamonds are usually set in gold collets -- solid metal collars -- with sealed backs. By the 17th century, silver was the setting of choice, to enhance the shine of diamonds -- often worn in elaborate hairpins - by candlelight. The introduction of platinum, with its high tensile strength, at the end of the 19th century created new possibilities in delicate, lace-like jewelery. By this stage, diamonds were often held in claw settings with open backs.
Backing
In Renaissance times and well into the 19th century, silver foil backing was often used to enhance a diamond's brilliance.
19th Century Diamonds
A profusion of exquisite antique diamond jewelery was made in the latter half of the 19th century thanks to an influx of fine stones from the Bahia fields of Brazil in the 1840s and South Africa in the 1870s.