How to Know a Real Antique Cameo

Examine the setting. This is perhaps the easiest way of dating a cameo. A good example should be set in gold. On brooches, look at the pin. If it has a safety catch, then it is a relatively modern example. Also consider the style of the mount. From the 1820s through to modern times, most cameos were given a classical setting (because they were bought by tourists in Italy), often with a rope-like design around the outer edge. Before then, the mounts frequently included enamel and jewels.

Look at the cameo itself. What is it made of? Very early cameos were carved from semi-precious gemstones, then, from the Medieval period through to the 18th Century, hardstones such as onyx were used. In the 19th Century, a type of pink and white agate called sardonyx was popular, and it was a desire to imitate sardonyx which led to the use of conch shells towards the latter quarter of the century. You can easily distinguish a shell cameo because it will have a concave back.

Inspect the carving. How crisp and subtle are the details on the drapery and hair? Some cameos would have been hastily knocked out by journeymen, while others were the work of artists. On shell cameos, heads in profile are generally later in date than full figures.

Consider the face on the cameo. These tend to change subtly over time. If you see a nose or a hairstyle which reminds you of a 1950s' fashion catalog, then it's probably a 1950s' cameo.