Things You'll Need
Instructions
Visit vintage horology (the science of making timepieces) websites and forums, and read collector books on vintage mechanical watches. Narrow your search to affordable watches. Consider, for example, that Rolex and Omega occupy the top price tier. Cyma and Hamilton are mid-range watches. Elgin and Helbros are low-end timepieces. Know the history and price range of a watch before purchasing.
Visit online auction websites to gauge the prices of vintage watches. Open an account to bid. Research the sellers sales history to ensure he or she is a seller in good standing. You are scrutinizing the seller as much as the watch.
Visit area watch shops that specialize in vintage watches. Determine whether the shop has a watchmaker on the premises. It is a sign the shop is committed to selling and servicing quality vintage watches. These second-hand shops can usually be found through a web search. Contact information also can be found at online vintage watch forums or through word-of-mouth. Regular jewelery stores do not sell vintage watches.
Use a jewelers loupe, (a type of magnifying glass), to inspect vintage watches. A loupe can be ordered through a jewelry shop or online.
Determine whether the dial is original or repainted. Original dials generally have a light to heavy patina or may be spotted. Aged watches are in more demand. A repainted dial devalues the watch. Inspect the crown, which is the winding knob at 3 o'clock, and hands for originality. Wind the watch to see if it winds easily. A watch not winding smoothly may indicate mechanical problems. Always question sellers on the watch's originality, especially regarding the dial and movement. If they can't answer, don't buy.
Open the case back of the watch to examine the movement. This is the spring-loaded mechanism that powers the watch. Determine if the watch's brand name is engraved on the movement and matches the name on the dial and case back. Often old watches may have a movement that is not original to the watch. This devalues the watch.
Avoid purchasing vintage watches from countries or U.S. states with tropical climates. Humidity wreaks havoc on the movement and can cause rust.