How to Refinish Antique Picture Frames

Open all available windows if you're working inside, and consider setting up a fan to blow fumes out if your workspace only contains 1 or 2 windows. Put on rubber gloves, eye protection and a smock. If you don't want to spend money on a smock, you can also wear some old clothes you don't mind getting stained or otherwise ruined. Put a tarp down and put the frame on top of the protective tarp to shield the area from accidental stain or paint drips.

Apply a coat of paint/finish remover to the frame with a regular paintbrush. A standard methylene chloride remover will work well. Such removers contain wax for decreased evaporation speed, but you still should not let the remover sit for long to avoid even minimal evaporation. Wait 2 to 3 minutes or longer if indicated on the paint/finish remover's container, and then scrape off the solution using a putty knife. Any old paint or polyurethane on the frame should come up along with the remover.

Buff out any scratches on the frame with 100-grit sandpaper. Such high-grit sandpaper will not remove deep gouges, but it will smooth out minor imperfections. For the most part, you'll want to leave the major imperfections intact since they provide an antique look to the frame. If you do decide to fix major imperfections, wood filler can be applied to deep gouges with a putty knife. Wood filler is stainable and typically blends well with natural wood tones.

Brush paint or stain on the frame to give the project fresh, vibrant color. For paint, use a standard bristled brush; staining works best with a foam brush. Wait for the paint or stain to dry fully. Consult the can for drying times.

Apply a coat of polyurethane using a new paintbrush; this will both seal the paint or stain, as well as add a glossy finish to the finished antique project. Polyurethane typically dries to the touch within about 1 to 2 hours. Do not hang the project for at least 24 hours because the finish can still be settling even when it appears mostly dry.