How to Date Antique Cameos

Study the subject of antique cameos using a good reference manual. Get some practice by looking at cameos for sale and in museums. While most antique cameos on the market will be Victorian, they can be much older.

Examine the cameo̵7;s quality with a jeweler̵7;s loupe. Establish whether it has been carved from a single piece or consists of different materials glued together, which most likely indicates a lower quality or fake cameo. An older, more valuable piece is made from shell, lava or ivory, and carved by hand. Glass and other materials have also been used for centuries. The two-color effect is obtained by delicately carving through a lighter layer to reveal naturally darker material underneath. Some modern cameos from the 1980s were laser-cut, which leaves a slightly rougher feel.

Identify the cameo̵7;s material. You can get a rough idea by its weight and consistency. By tapping it gently against your teeth, you will get an indication of its density to help determine the material. Much older cameos are likely made from shell. You can recognize shell by its translucent quality when held up to the light. The use of volcanic rock dates back to the 17th century; in the 19th century, it became popular to use volcanic rock from Mount Vesuvius. Most cameos made from this material will be from that time. Jet and ivory were also used during this period, although ivory cameos are very rare. Twentieth-century pieces are made largely from celluloid, amber, bakelite, glass or gutta-percha.

Look at the picture on the cameo. Those made of shell and stone depicting classical scenes are usually dated to the 18th and 19th centuries, when these styles and materials were most popular. Victorian cameos also often depict an anonymous woman. Upswept hair usually indicates a late Victorian date, while a shorter, curlier style indicates the early 20th century. Noses are also an indicator of date. A long, elegant Roman nose usually indicates a date prior to 1850. An upturned nose became more popular in the mid-19th century, and the pert nose appeared in the early 20th century or later.

Incorporate all your evidence and refer to your manual if necessary. If in doubt, consult a specialist dealer or jewelry appraiser.