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The History of Gold Vermeil

Gold vermeil, also known as silver gilt, is a type of jewelry that is made by plating a thin layer of gold on sterling silver. Gold vermeil is popular, and can even be found in the White House, which has a "Vermeil Room" that features vermeil tableware and a vermeil wine cooler. Unlike most jewelry that can be expensive, gold vermeil is affordable yet doesn't look cheap.
  1. Background

    • Gold vermeil was invented in France around 1750 when royalty and high society sought out fine jewels and precious metals as a means of affirming wealth and prestige. During the mid-1700s, the vermeil process involved fire-gilding liquid gold onto silver. France later banned this procedure because it involved working with high levels of mercury, which would blind and sicken vermeil makers.

    Quality

    • True vermeil must use at least 10-karat gold coating that is 1.5 microns thick on sterling silver. Of course, higher quality vermeil can exceed this number, but must never fall beneath it or it won't be considered "pure." According to jewelry website Handcrafted Jewelry, the highest quality gold vermeil is used with 24-karat gold, while the most common gold vermeil falls in the 18-karat to 14-karat range. When purchasing vermeil, check for karatage, as all real gold vermeil is labeled with it.

    Care

    • Gold vermeil can be delicate. If it is not properly cared for, the gold can darken over time and begin to wear off. Sterling silver beneath the gold can tarnish as well, and if bits of gold have rubbed off, it can be hard to clean the silver's tarnish. To protect from scratches or tarnishing, keep your gold vermeil jewelry wrapped in a soft cloth inside an "airtight container, such as a zip-lock bag," states jewelry retailer Oster Jewelers. According to Oster Jewelers, you should never polish your gold vermeil jewelry with anything other than a soft cloth, and never use harsh chemical cleaners.

    Modern-Day Technique

    • Gold vermeil is very common, and can be found online and in jewelry stores across the United States. The process of plating gold vermeil is much different than it was in France during the 18th century. Nowadays the vermeil process entails electroplating the gold on the silver, which does not endanger the jewelry maker with mercury poisoning and creates a more "tarnish-resistant" product.


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