Hobbies And Interests
The First Pocket Watch
The first pocket watch was invented in 1505 by Peter Henlein, a Nuremberg, Germany, clockmaker. Henlein figured out how to place a workable mechanism inside a pomander, or small metal globe that was used to carry scents. Spring-powered mechanisms already existed, but it was Henlein who figured out how to regulate the recoil by using pig bristles. The pig bristles work with the watch's balance wheel to prevent the mainspring from recoiling too quickly. Watches could now keep accurate time by the hour.
Accurate Timepieces
By the late 1600s, England had become the center of pocket watch innovation. The addition of a fourth wheel to the mechanism permitted watches to be wound only once a day, and by around 1800, watches could keep time by the second. Pocket watches had also acquired metal cases for protection, and a crystal to keep dust, and other obstructions, away from the watch face. Tiny jewels were inserted inside the movement to prevent the gears from rubbing against each other.
Fusee and Going Barrels
Older pocket watches use either a fusee or a going barrel to regulate the time. Fusees were universal until the mid-19th century and continued to be used in English watches up to 1900. The fusee is essentially a long, thin chain wound around a wheel. The movement of the chain acts similarly to the movement of the weights in an old clock. Early fusees were thick wheels called verge fusees that were later superseded by more accurate lever fusees. Improvements in the mainspring, hairspring and balance wheel resulted in the more modern, going barrel design.
Cases and Movements
The case and movement of a pocket watch are commonly produced by different makers. Inexpensive cases may actually contain expensive movements. Cases were primarily a matter of personal preference. Many were solid gold and handsomely engraved or enameled. Cases may open with hinges, or else screw on, or snap into place. The movement in size is commonly an American or Swiss movement. American movements range from sizes 1 to 20, or from 1 inch to 1 5/6 inches in diameter. Swiss movements range from a size, or "ligne" (line) of 7 to 22, that covers metric diameters of 15.79 to 49.63 mm.
Makers, Models and Grades
Famous pocket watch makers include Waltham, Ball, Illinois, Elgin and Studebaker. Studebaker, also known as South Bend, was also the carmaker. Watches are known by both their model and their grade. Model refers to the specific kind of watch, for example a Waltham Model¹7, or an Illinois Series 6 "Bunn Special." These specific models can also sport improvements that are referred to by grade names, such as the Waltham "P.S. Bartlett" version of the Model¹7. Watches are also "graded" according to condition, from unused and mint down to fair.