Things You'll Need
Instructions
Remove the inside assembly of the antenna tuner. Use a ratchet to remove the hexnuts and disconnect the wiring from the ceramic insulator and the end connector. Set these parts aside for use later.
Measure the distance inside the antenna tuner between the two bolts that held the assembly in the box. Make a mark on a piece of 1/4-inch steel plating where those bolts would go and drill two holes on those marks.
Set the tuning capacitor down on the steel plate and make a mark where the screws will go to secure the capacitor to the steel plate. Drill the mounting holes so that you can attach the capacitor to the steel plate.
Mount the capacitor to the steel plate. Bolt the steel plate inside the tuner box.
Strip the insulation off of a three-foot section of the copper wiring. Grip one end firmly with vice grips and twist around a two-inch pipe in the form of a coil. Ideally the coil will be long enough for one end to be soldered to the ceramic insulator on the inside of the box, and the other end to the connector on the inside of the box. Cut wire to size accordingly, if you need a longer or a shorter piece.
Mount the coil to the bottom of the box and connect the ends of the coil to the ceramic insulator and connector.
Connect a jumper wire on one end of the capacitor to the other end of the capacitor. Solder the wire in place at the marked point on the capacitor. This will help serve as part the ground for the coil of the ham radio tuner.
Connect an insulated alligator clip to one of the copper coils and connect it to the jumper wire you just installed. Adjust the capacitor to find the clearest signal by moving the alligator clip from one coil to another and adjusting the capacitor, once the tuner is connected to the radio. This clip will be removed once the tuning is complete.