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Choosing Iron Wattage
Soldering iron wattage has to do with the iron's ability to recover from heat loss. The higher the wattage, the greater the ability. Heat loss occurs when heat from the iron is transferred to solder and metal component parts. When heat is lost, it takes the iron several seconds to regain the temperature needed to reheat the parts and melt solder. Irons are designed this way to prevent excess heat from melting non-metal component parts and to control the amount of heat applied by the user.
Choose your iron based on the work you will be performing. If you'll be doing various types of work, a soldering station with adjustable temperature may fit your needs. Although more expensive, soldering stations allow more types of work to be done, without having to purchase and maintain several different irons. Choose a 15- to 25-watt iron for printed circuit board (PCB) and light wiring work, 25 to 40 watts for heavier work that does not include PCBs, and 40 watts or higher for specialty work, such as stained glass and wood burning.
Spare Parts and Accessories
Every soldering kit should include a spare heating element and a selection of iron tips. Heating elements do not fail often, unless the iron is left on accidentally for an extended time period, but having a spare is inexpensive insurance. Solder iron tips are the working end of the iron and are available in different shapes and sizes. Experience and experimentation will determine your favorite tips, but as a general rule of thumb, size the tip according to the job: small tips for small component work; larger tips for larger component size work.
Tips need to be cleaned for good soldering and to increase tip life. An easy and effective cleaner is a simple soldering sponge, slightly dampened with distilled water to prevent mineral deposits from forming on the iron top. Never use files or sandpaper to clean tips, as it will abrade the protective tip plating and eventually render the tip useless. If the tip forms heavy oxidation that cannot be removed with the sponge, the light application of very-fine emery cloth may be used or commercially available solder tip cleaner. Tips need to be tinned (coated with solder) intermediately after cleaning to prevent further oxidation.
Solder and Surface Cleaning
Choosing the right rosin core solder is important. Rosin cleans and protects the soldered surface and the tip from oxidation, and assists in the flow of molten solder. The standard solder for most electronics work is 60/40 (tin and lead percentage), but lead-free alternatives are also on the market. The thickness (gauge) of solder should match the type of work, and the solder iron wattage. Thinner solders of 19 to 20 AWG (American Wire Gauge) work best for electronics and wiring with low wattage irons. Experiment with thicker solders for specialty work with more powerful irons.
Surfaces that are not clean will not accept solder, even with the assistance of rosin. Surfaces that have never been soldered, especially plated surfaces, may be coated with protective oils or silicone that must be removed before solder will stick. A light rub with a fast-evaporating solvent, such as acetone, applied with a cotton swab is often all that is needed.