Things You'll Need
Instructions
Check the fuse breaker that controls the power which is fed into the operating track controller. If the unit appears not to have power, this is the best place to start. If the fuse is not tripped, insert the leads for your volt-ohm meter into the electrical socket into which the A/C power for your track controller is fed. The meter should provide a 120-volt reading. If it does not, then the trouble with the track controller is that the electrical socket has gone bad.
Test the power flowing into the operating track controller if the electrical socket is bad. Begin by turning on the A/C power to the controller. The power pack leads should be connected to the side of the track controller labeled "power." There are four screws here, each labeled "A" or "U." Touch the leads for the volt/ohm meter to the screws to which the A/C power is connected. If there is no reading, then the wire leading from the power pack to the track controller is bad and needs to be replaced.
Test the track controller output using the bank of eight screws located on the opposite side of the track controller. Turn on the track controller with your CAB-1 remote control, and then test the power and ground of each of the screws from left to right. They should read 30 volts each. To test them, touch the volt-ohm leads to the screws directly beside one another in pairs of two. If you get no reading, but there is a power reading coming into the track controller, the track controller is either malfunctioning or is improperly calibrated to your CAB-1 controller.
Recalibrate the CAB-1 controller according to the instruction manual included with the controller, and then test the leads coming out of the track controller once again. If you still get no power reading, then the track controller is damaged. Replace the unit with a new track controller or send the old unit in for warranty repair or replacement.