Hobbies And Interests
Things You'll Need
Instructions
Start your HO system on a flat 4-foot by 8-foot piece of plywood, MDF or particle board. Finding a flat board might require searching through the pile at your local lumber store. The standard size track that comes in most train sets will take up most of the board.
Buy your track. Nickel silver track provides the best overall results with the lowest maintenance. Brass track requires the most maintenance due to the oxide that forms on the tracks. Steel track is prone to rust. If you bought a train set that included brass or steel track, the National Model Railroad Association, or NMRA, advises that you buy track separately. The NMRA also advises beginners to avoid flexible track. The three-foot sections of flexible track require fewer connections, but curving it properly is challenging.
You might also want to buy cork precut in the shape of the tracks. It deadens some of the noise from the train engine and wheels.
Place your board on a table, workbench or saw horses to give yourself a solid working platform. Organize your track pieces and supplies. One oval track requires 12 straight pieces, each 9 inches long, and a complete circle with an 18-inch radius.
Loosely lay the track sections and cork in place. Start with the straight pieces down the sides.
Attach the first two straight pieces of track to one another. Drill pilot holes through the track, cork and underlying board with a small hand-operated drill. Use track nails to secure the track and cork to the board.
Closely examine the connections between the track pieces as you go. Each connection must be tight, smooth and flat. The better-grade tracks have tiny covers over the joints. If the cover is dented, lay a regular screwdriver head, file or chisel flat against the cover and gently tap with a hammer to straighten it. Repair any gaps at the end of the rails or any humps. Fixing the problem later may require removing the track and starting over.
Once you have secured the track, continue installing a couple of sections at a time. Stop after each nailing and check the connections.
When you reach the first curve, follow the same installation procedures as the straight sections, but be extra cautious with the connections. Make sure the curve is free of binds and gaps. Smooth operation of the train is especially critical in the curves.
After completing the first curve, switch back to the straight pieces. Install a couple at a time, check them and continue.
The final curve is trickier. Lay the cork in place and attach the first curved piece to the last straight piece. Attach the next curved piece to the straight piece on the other side. Connect the rest of the curved pieces, drill and nail them down.
Recheck your final installation.
Conduct a test run with a couple of railcars attached to the engine. Watch closely. If the train visibly reacts at any connection, stop it. Examine and repair the problem. Resume the test. When the run is problem-free, you are finished.