Things You'll Need
Instructions
Mark the location of your test-fitted track with a felt-tip pen. Place a series of dots, centered between the rails, in every other tie gap. When you lift the track away, the dots will describe a centerline on the subroadbed. Squeeze a bead of white glue on both sides of the centerline, about a half-inch off it and no more than 3 feet along it.
Separate the strips of cork roadbed, available in hobby shops and online. The roadbed comes in 36-inch lengths. Each piece has beveled outer edges and splits down the center into two pieces, each half the width of the roadbed. Align the inner (non-beveled) edge with the dotted center line, using push pins as needed to hold it in place as it snakes around the layout.
Butt the other half of the roadbed to the first piece, offsetting the starting point so the cork pieces do not align at the other end. Again, use push pins as needed. Continue around the layout until you've re-created the track plan in cork. After a few minutes, when the glue has dried, pull the push pins.
Lay your track on the roadbed, aligning it on the cork's centerline and using push pins as needed to hold it in place. Run a finger over the trackwork, making certain the rail-joiner connections are true.
Dilute the white glue 3:1 with water and add a dash of alcohol to help it flow. With a dropper, dribble the white glue mixture between the rails, letting it run beneath the ties but keeping it, to the extent possible, off the rail tops. Clean the rails, let the glue dry, then test a train. The track is attached.