Simple and Uncomplicated
Don̵7;t over-complicate your table. Design it with four simple legs and a top that opens and closes. If it̵7;s for permanent display, such as for a museum setting, install 1/4-inch-thick glass that seals in the medals, but attach the glass with putty that can be taken off with a putty knife so that the glass can be removed if needed. Start by laying the medals out on a piece of cardboard or a tabletop. Space them as you desire, and then trace or measure around the collective perimeter to get the size. Rectangular shapes work best, but if you̵7;ve got a particular space where the case needs to go, any shape is fine. Design it low enough -- probably under 36 inches tall so that it̵7;s not top-heavy. If you̵7;re not sure about the design, go to a furniture store and check the integrity of some coffee tables to get some idea of sizing and stability.
Hot Legs
Legs provide ballast and are an important part of the table. If the legs have substantial thickness ̵1; no less than 2 inches square -- they should work fine, but thicker legs, up to 4 inches square, make a bomb-proof table that resists any kind of tipping. Thicker legs are easier to attach and provide the security needed. The attachment is basic: After cutting the legs to height, cut four square pieces of hardwood plywood at least 2 inches bigger than the legs on all four sides. For example, if the legs are 3 inches square, cut pieces of plywood 7 inches square. Center and nail a piece on top of each leg to form a T-shape.
Box It Up
Display tables don̵7;t need to be deep; 3 inches is usually sufficient. You'll need a piece of padding such as felt or even a cushion inside the table for the medals. Cut some strips of 3/4-inch hardwood plywood 4-1/2 inches wide. Using the measurements for the perimeter of the medal collection, cut and assemble a frame with the strips by mitering the ends and pin-nailing them together with glue. When the frame is dry, cut another piece of plywood to fit inside the frame. Add glue and pin-nail it inside the frame recessed 3/4 inch into the frame. This gives the frame needed strength and provides a 3/4-inch lip or recess where the plywood leg attachments are hidden. Turn the box upside down, place one leg in each corner and screw the legs to the bottom of the box, using the overhanging edges of the 7-inch plywood squares to screw the legs to the bottom of the table.
Top It Off
Top the box with a hardwood and glass lid: Measure and cut four pieces of 3-inch-wide, 3/4-inch-thick hardwood lumber. Miter the ends of the hardwood or use a butt joint, and glue and pin-nail them together to build a frame the same size as the box. When the frame is dry, route a 1/4-inch-deep, 3/8-inch-wide rabbit or shelf around the inside of the frame. Measure or cut a template the size of the opening, including the lip, and order 1/4-inch glass to fit. Sand and finish the table, using stain and a clear finish. Run a bead of silicone glue around the opening and press the glass into the routed opening.
There are two options for attaching the lid; for security, pin-nail it directly to the top after installing the padding and medals. For easy access, add a piano hinge to one side for a door that opens.