Hobbies And Interests
Things You'll Need
Instructions
Cut the 3-wire microphone cable to the desired length using the wire snips. Strip 1 inch of outer insulation from both ends of the microphone cable.
Locate the red and black wires, and the uninsulated, braided copper wire snaking around them. Strip 1/4 inch of insulation from both ends of the insulated wires with the wire strippers.
Solder the center twisted wire inside the microphone cable to the ground post, labeled with a stamped "3."
Solder the red wire to the positive post, stamped "1" on the plug. Solder the remaining black wire to location "2." Slide the protective boot back up the plug.
Solder the other end of the black wire to the negative end of one of the Zener diodes. Solder one end of one of the resistors to this junction.
Solder the opposing red wire's free end to the negative leg of the second diode, along with one end of one of the 3.3 kilo-ohm resistors.
Solder the two free ends of the Zener diodes together, along with the free end of the braided wire leading from the headphone plug.
Solder the 330-ohm resistor to the Zener junction. Solder the other end of this resistor to pin 3 on the DB-9 connector.
Strip a 3-inch section of microphone wire out of the outer jacket, so that you are left with a 3-inch length of red and black wire. Strip 1/4 inch of insulation from both ends of these wires.
Solder one end of the additional red wire from the preceding step at the junction point between the Zener diode and attached resistor to pin 8 on the back of the DB-9 connector. Solder the other end of the associated resistor to pin 7.
Solder the other end of the resistor connected to the Zener diodes to pin 3 on the DB-9 connector.
Solder one end of the additional black wire from Step 9 at the junction point between the Zener diode and the attached resistor to pin 6 on the back of the DB-9 connector. Solder the other end of the associated resistor to pin 4.
Wrap all exposed solder joints individually with electrical tape to insulate the connections.