Hobbies And Interests
Things You'll Need
Instructions
Pre-Cutting the Wood
Cut your 2-by-4-inch lumber with the circular saw. You need three 48-inch pieces, two 36-inch pieces, three 20-inch pieces, one 12-inch piece and four 6-inch pieces. Cut the ends of the 6-inch pieces at a 45-degree angle so that you have four trapezoids.
Cut the 2-by-2-inch lumber. You need two 51-inch pieces, two 50 inch pieces, six 40-inch pieces and six 6-inch pieces. Cut the 6-inch pieces' ends at a 45-degree angle so that you have six trapezoids.
Set the circular saw's blade to a 45-degree angle. Place the 36-inch and two 20-inch long 2-by-4 pieces flat on the saw horses. Cut the ends off these pieces, to create 45-degree angles.
Building the Milking Stand
Arrange the 36-inch and 20-inch 2-by-4 pieces in a rectangle, so that the angled-off sections rest against each other. Use the L-square to ensure perfect right angles. Fasten the lumbers to each other by driving two 3-inch screws through each corner, with the power drill.
Place the plywood sheet onto the frame so that it is flush with the frame. Attach the plywood by driving 3-inch screw through the plywood into the frame at 6-inch intervals. This is the milk stand's floor.
Place the milk stand's floor on the saw horses. Make pencil marks on the 2-inch sides of the 48-inch lumbers at 7 1/4 inches and 12 inches. Place two 48-inch lumbers flat against one of the floor's 20-inch sides so that they are flush with the corners. Fasten each 48-inch lumber to the floor with four 3-inch screws. Use the L-square to make sure the angles are perfectly straight.
Place the remaining 48-inch lumber against the floor's other 20-inch side so that it is flush with one of the corners, and fasten it with 3-inch screws. Place the 12-inch lumber against the remaining corner so that it is flush with the plywood sheet. Screw it to the frame.
Stand the milk stand up. Screw the angled-off 6-inch long 2-by-4-inch braces to the 20-inch sides, 48-inch uprights and 12-inch upright. The angled-off sides must be flush with the plywood and rest firmly against the 2-inch sides of the uprights.
Screw the remaining 20-inch piece to the 48-inch upright in the milk stand's front, 18 inches above the plywood floor. Use the L-square to check for perfect right angles.
Building the Enclosure
Attach a 40-inch long 2-by-2-inch piece to the bottom of the milk stand's rear, with 3-inch wood screws. It must be flush with the 48-inch upright and extend past the 12-inch upright.
Screw two 40-inch long pieces to the milk stand's front. Place one piece at the bottom and the other at the top of the 48-inch uprights. The ends must be flush with the outer edge of the 48-inch upright, on the same side as the one in the rear.
Place two more 40-inch pieces against the 40-inch pieces on the bottom of the milk stand, so that you have a 44-by-40-inch rectangular frame. Drive a 3-inch screw through the sides of these lumbers onto the end of the adjoining pieces.
Stand a 50-inch lumber inside each of the frame's two free corners. Attach these pieces to the frame with 3-inch screws.
Screw a 6-inch long 2-by-2-inch brace to each 50-inch upright and frame. Use the L-square to make sure the uprights are at a perfect right angle to the frame.
Place the remaining 40-inch lumbers between the 48-inch and 50-inch uprights -- flush with their top ends. Drive 3-inch screws through the uprights into the 40-inch crossbeam. Place the remaining 6-inch 2-by-2-inch braces inside the corners of the cross beams and the uprights. Screw them in place with 3-inch screws.
Place the 51-inch beams against the four uprights. Fasten them to the uprights with 3-inch screws.
Cut three pieces from the tarp with the utility knife. One piece needs to cover the roof section and 48-inch tall side wall, one needs to cover the rear wall and one must cover the front -- leaving a cutout for the section between the two 48-inch uprights, the roof and the upper 20-inch crossbeam. Staple these sections to the roof, side, rear and front with the staple gun.