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How to Build a Fighter Kite

Fighting kites have a long tradition, reaching back to feudal-era Japan. Over the centuries, the basic components and designs of these kites have changed very little. Modern fighter kites often use carbon fiber spars instead of bamboo and often make use of complex mathematics to draw out every iota of potential, but they still follow one of a small number of basic plans. The buka kite is one such basic form.

Things You'll Need

  • Two 18-inch by 0.06 diameter carbon fiber spars
  • One 10-inch by 0.06 spar
  • One 15-inch by 0.06 spar
  • Thin, lightweight material (polyethylene film and newspaper work well), 10-inches by 15 3/8-inches
  • Kite string
  • Photo corners
  • Double-sided carpet tape and kite repair tape
  • 30-pound test line (fishing line or braided Dacron work well)
  • Soldering iron
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Instructions

  1. Kite

    • 1

      Attach photo corners to the trailing edge corners of the kite and 3/8-inch down from the leading edge corners. These will act as holding points for the diagonal spars.

    • 2

      Cut a section of double-sided tape 5/8 inch wide by 14 inches long. Apply this strip to the leading edge of the kite material, making sure not to overlap the photo corners. Do not remove the backing strip.

    • 3

      Cut a 1-inch square of kite repair tape and use it to attach the spine of the kite to the trailing edge. Use a toothpick to open the leading edge photo corners and insert the leading edge spar (fifteen inch piece). The leading edge spar may need to be sanded down so that it does not place tension on the material.

    • 4

      Install the crossbars by inserting them beneath the photo corners as described previously. These may also require some sanding. Cut two more 1-inch squares of repair tape and apply them to the crossbars next to the photo corners on the trailing edge.

    • 5

      Cut a small triangular notch into the leading edge material above the spine, then peel the backing off the double sided tape. Center the spine and then press the leading edge spar and spine down onto the tape. Fold the leading edge over one side at a time and press it down, sealing the tape together.

    • 6

      Apply small pieces of repair tape (about 1/2 inch by 2 inches) to the cross bars and the spine to bind them to the kite material. Apply 1-inch squares to the leading edge corners and to the center of the leading edge, to bind the inch or so of previously untaped material along the edge at both ends and to help hold the spine in place. There should be a small amount overhanging the front of the edge, which you should fold over onto the other side of the kite.

    Tension Line

    • 7

      Measure 1/2-inch from both ends of the leading edge. Use a soldering iron or heated pin to punch holes through the tape and kite material at these points. Be careful not to touch the carbon fiber rods with the soldering iron.

    • 8

      Cut a piece of high-test fishing line (or other high strength line) about eight inches long. Fold it in half and tie a knot to create a loop of approximately three inches in diameter. Open the loop and refold it so that the knot rests in the middle.

    • 9

      Cut a second piece of line about thirty inches in length. Lay the thirty inch section over the middle of the loop and then pass one side of the halved loop through the other side twice. Pull that same piece of the loop so that the other side closes around the thirty inch line. This is basically a double lark's head knot. Slide the knotted loop assembly to about five inches from one end of the main line and pass the loop through one of the holes in the kite.

    • 10

      Pass the line over the leading edge and through the loop, creating another lark's head knot. Affix this knot to the back side of the kite, which is the side with the spars and tape. Pass the other end of the line through the other hole, then knot it in place.

    • 11

      Back on the other side, hold the knot in the loop that is holding the main tension line and pull the tension line through until you can only put two fingers between the line and the leading edge without bowing the edge. Trim the line so that about two or three inches remain extending from the knot, then tie a knot in the end so that the tension line will not pass through the double lark's head (or Prusik) knot. To bow the edge, grip the Prusik knot and pull the end of the tension line back toward the center of the kite until there is a bow of roughly two inches in the edge.

    Bridle

    • 12

      Measure and mark points two inches from both sides of the spine on the leading edge and about a half inch below the central crossbar where all the spars meet on both sides of the spine. Use the soldering iron to punch holes at these four points, again being careful not to hit the carbon fiber spars.

    • 13

      Cut a piece of line 8 inches long. Pass it through one of the holes on the leading edge and tie it in place securely, then repeat on the other hole. Note that the bridle line should be on the front of the kite, which is the side where you cannot see the spars. A drop of super glue can be used for extra security.

    • 14

      Fold over two to three inches of line and tie an overhand knot to create a loop. Attach the loop to the top bridle using a lark's head knot -- place the loop under the bridle, pass the bottom part of the loop through the top and pull it tight.

    • 15

      Pass the end of the lower bridle line through the two holes below the center of the kite. Pull the lark's head knot to just below one of the leading edge corners and then tie the lower bridle in place. Apply superglue to all of the knots holding both halves of the bridle to the frame, then trim the excess line from the lower bridle.

    • 16

      Make another two to three inch loop of line and attach it to the lower bridle using a lark's head knot. Move the loop forward until you can lift the leading edge of the kite about two inches off your work surface without raising the trailing edge.


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