Mid-Victorian Shoes and Boots
Before the 1840s, shoes were made in identical pairs. So shoes molded for left or right feet, a step forward in comfort, were still a welcome innovation for mid-Victorian women. By Civil War times, the fashion was for black or brown boots of ankle or calf height, with low, not flat, heels and square, not rounded, toes. Slippers in a variety of colors were suitable for dancing at balls, but not for daily wear. While many boots had buttons, the elastic gusset was patented in 1837, so some boots were comfortable slip-on styles. Another style is a lace-up boot similar to what actress Nicole Kidman wore in the movie "Cold Mountain." One version is touted in a catalog for its comfort -- not just for re-enactments, but for regular wear.
Period Details
Many re-enactor groups realize it's difficult to put together an authentic costume from the start. It can be expensive. However, hoop skirts by Civil War times were slightly off the ground. Boots kept ankles modestly hidden. Even more unsightly at a re-enactment would be a glimpse of a sneaker, a flip-flop or even a Doc Marten. Unless you're required to wear a certain type of shoe for foot problems, don't flout Victorian conventions. When it comes to comfort, boots should be a welcome change from stilettos.
Vintage or Replica?
Some re-enactor groups recommend replicas from "sutlers" -- the term comes from the Civil War camp suppliers -- and re-enactor suppliers are easy to find on the Internet. Other groups, however, say it's less expensive for beginners to research the styles, then look for something similar as a vintage or thrift-store find. Either way, do the research, and don't forget to let comfort be your guide before you buy.
Expert Insight
Women's re-enactor groups recommend socks -- not hosiery -- for authenticity and to prevent blisters. To choose boots that will be comfortable, fit your foot for length, width and volume, according to an REI website. That will help control heel slip, which causes blisters: "Your foot should feel very 'quiet' in the boot as you walk."