Hobbies And Interests
Things You'll Need
Instructions
Set Up
Construct the strongback from the canoe kit shipping crate, according to the directions.
Bend outer and inner stems (bow and stern of the canoe) at the same time to fit the form. This is done by stacking four of the eight stem pieces together, applying a hot gun to the bending area, and shaping the stack to fit on the stern stem form. Repeat for the stems for the bow.
Hot glue the inner stems onto the stem form at either end of the canoe form. These pieces can be disconnected from the form with a simple tap of a hammer when the canoe is finished.
Glue the Strips
Start at one stem. Use the heat gun to bend the strips into place as they progress to the other stem. The heat from the heat gun helps the wood bend and lessens the stress created if boards were simply forced into place.
Use the wood glue and glue the bead-and-cove (a ball-and-socket system that connects small wooden pieces together) strips onto one another.
Work the strips from the gunwales or upper sides of the hull toward the keel.
Clamp every three or four strips tightly, every few feet, until the glue dries.
Fair the Hull
Wet the hull down with a little water. This raises the grain.
Sand or fair the outside of the hull smooth to eliminate all rough edges and imperfections. Use 100-grit sandpaper first, then 220.
Fill gaps with wood putty.
Sand again. Repeat Steps 1 to 3 until the surface is smooth as satin.
Sand the inside of the hull the same way as in Steps 1 through 4. The resin epoxy that is added later fills any grooves and imperfections, but adds significant weight to the craft.
Glass the Hull
Put on rubber gloves and a mask. Affix the fiberglass cloth along the outside of the canoe. Lay the fiberglass cloth lengthwise across the hull exterior. Get the sheets as close together as possible, because you must get a good seal when applying the epoxy, especially at the bottom of the hull.
Roll a thin layer of epoxy onto the fiberglass sheets with a roller; brush the hard-to-reach places. Wait 20 minutes. Use a squeegee to smooth out the epoxy and remove any excess. Remember, the less epoxy, the better. This application takes about four hours. Apply two more coats of resin epoxy to the exterior.
Turn the canoe upright to glass the interior and repeat Step 1. Secure each length of fiberglass cloth with a clothespin to hold it in shape. Repeat Step 2. Consider adding a matte non-skid surface. Wait 14 days for the inside to cure completely, before adding the varnish.
Add Varnish
Varnish both the outside and inside of the canoe, using the UV marine varnish and a brush.
Sand each coat after the varnish is dry. This can be done with sheets of sandpaper, or with an orbital sander.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 at least three times. Apply a last coat of varnish, but do not sand.
Attach the Stems
Glue the outside and inside stems to the bow and stern.
Secure them with the stern bands.
Glass the stems with the fiberglass cloth and epoxy about five times to add strength. Allow each layer of epoxy to dry before applying the next coat.
Finish the Craft
Install the inwales and outwales (the thin outside and inside cedar pieces that go around the top edge of the canoe) by gluing each to the canoe and clamping it every few feet until the glue is dry.
Add the yoke (interior center support). The yoke is optional, but helps when portaging.
Add the seats and decks.