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How to Use Pattern Wire & Gallery Wire

Pattern and gallery wire are two types of metal wires used to make jewelry. Pattern wire is made from a variety of materials, including copper and steel, and has various repeating designs etched into the metal. Gallery wire is a thin, malleable wire that is used by jewelers for setting precious stones in bezels for earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets. Various types of jewelry can be made using both pattern wire and gallery wire, though each type of wire has a particular function.

Things You'll Need

Measuring tape
Bolt cutters or tin snips
Clasps
Soldering iron
Handform
Rolling mill
Round-nosed pliers
Bezel with prongs
Small cylinder burr

Instructions

Pattern Wire
- 1
  Measure and determine the length of the pattern wire that you'll be using. For instance, if you're making a simple bangle, measure the size of your hand at its widest. This will allow you to slip the bangle off and on. If you're wrapping pattern wire, create a mock-up out of other wire to determine the length of pattern wire you'll need.
- 2
  Cut the length of pattern wire using bolt cutters or tin snips. Heavy metal pattern wire, such as steel, will require you to use bolt cutters, while most other pattern wire can be cut with tin snips.
- 3
  Bend and manipulate the pattern wire on the handform or freehand until you've created the shape and style that you want.
- 4
  Solder the two ends of the pattern wire together if you're creating a simple bangle, or attach a clasp by following the directions used in the clasp's kit.
Gallery Wire
- 5
  Calculate the size of the gallery wire support based on the size of the stone you're setting and the diameter of the bezel's prongs. The diameter of the upper gallery wire support should be approximately 10 percent smaller than the diameter of the gem. If you're making a lower gallery wire support, it should be small enough in diameter to fit inside the upper support.
- 6
  Shape the gallery wires using round-nosed pliers so that they form a circle with the diameter of your measurements. Solder the two ends of the gallery wire together to form the circular support.
- 7
  Measure and mark the location of the bezel's prongs on the gallery wire support. Create grooves for the prongs of about one-third the depth of the gallery wire using a small cylinder burr that's the exact diameter of the prongs. These grooves must be in the exact location of the prongs in order for the support to fit inside the bezel.
- 8
  Insert the gallery wire support or supports into the bezel so that the grooves align with the prongs. Solder the support to the bezel and prongs so it's secure. Place the gemstone into the supports, then bend the bezel prongs over it to secure it in place.

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