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Metal Lathe Tricks

Amateurs getting their start in metal lathing should invest some time in consulting experts, either in person or by conducting extensive research. Taking the advice of experienced metalsmiths will save novice machinists a considerable amount of money and frustration, and preserve the life of their machine and its parts.
  1. Maintenance Tricks

    • A lathe should be disassembled for cleaning at least annually. Pick out swarf with a scriber and wipe surfaces free of dust and grime with a microfiber cloth. Choose a thick oil for cleaning and lubricating gears and teeth rather than grease, which attracts swarf and creates a mess inside the gears and changewheels. Insert small pieces of newsprint between changewheels and press them into the mesh to maintain the necessary amount of space to prevent grinding and keep wheels turning smoothly between oil applications. During winter months or in air-conditioned buildings, always allow the machine to warm up for about 15 minutes before beginning work. Forcing the machine to start work when cold will wear machine parts down much faster than allowing the lathe to run on no load. Machine parts will generate their own heat and establish smooth rotational motion for optimum performance.

    Grinding and Restoring Drills

    • When restoring a large drill in poor condition, it is best to place the drill in the appropriate size chuck and grind the tip using a tool-post grinder set to revolve backwards. Hand-grind the drill's relief once both lips are clean and finish by stoning so the drill throws equal-sized chips from each side when tested. Small drill grinding can be done by hand, but requires practice and experience achieving the correct drill tip appearance, so it is wise to locate old drills to practice on before working will more expensive drills. Stroke a very fine India stone up and down against the drill while holding it at an angle. Use a magnifier or high-strength reading glasses to examine the drill until the tip is restored.

    Drilling Hard Materials

    • Metalsmiths working with extremely hard materials, including files and hacksaw blades, can use masonry drills. By running them at the same speed as a drill press at its maximum speed, it is possible to soften the metal by heating it to the point that a drill can penetrate it. It is important to keep in mind that working through very thin sections, such as a saw blade, will dull the drill at a faster rate, so it will need to be sharpened after each operation. For small lathes, use a slip stone across the top surface.

    Vise Advice

    • Do not substitute a three-jaw chuck for a bench vise to grip rough-finished or irregular material. The material will ruin the vise. Always use a four-jaw chuck for this type of job. If using a smooth-jawed machine vise to work with slippery material such as brass, slide a thin sheet of paper between each side of the vice and the metal being held. This is extremely effective in preventing the metal from moving during the work.


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