Information Needed for Mounting a Deer Head

Tanning the Deer Head Skin

• Use 25 pounds non-iodized salt and rub it carefully on the deer skin, also known as cape. Pay special attention to the grooves. Lay the cape flat and rub more salt on it. Leave it overnight to drain. Shake the cape to get rid of old salt and apply more non-iodized salt. Leave the cape to drain for two days; if the cape is wet, shake the old salt off and apply fresh salt.

  Mix four pounds of salt in four gallons of water. Place the cape into this solution and leave until its gets soft. Transfer to a pickle bath to rehydrate the cape and remove proteins that cannot be tanned. Make a pickling bath by mixing two cups of formic acid and 20 pounds of non-iodized salt in 20 gallons of water, maintaining a pH of 2. Leave the cape in the bath for three days. On the third day, the cape swells. Thin the skin and return to the pickle bath for another 24 hours.

  Mix four ounces of baking soda in four gallons of water. Place the cape in this neutralizing solution for 20 minutes. Use EZ100 to tan the skin. Make sure the tan has a pH of 4 before putting on the skin. Let the tan stay on the skin for around 24 hours. Place the skin into a towel and allow the excess water to drain out. Then rub tanning oil, such as Rittel's Pro Plus, on the skin. Place the dear head skin into the refrigerator overnight, then mount it on the mannequin.

Preparing the Mannequin for Mounting the Deer Head

• Order the mannequin based on the size of the deer head. Test the mannequin for fit by placing the deer head skin on it. Do not burn or rough up the mannequin at this point as it will be difficult to slide the cape on.

  Use a propane torch to burn the mannequin. This will make the sanding process easier. Sand the mannequin, then use a dermal tool to cut grooves for the tear duct near the eyes and around the lips, so the skin of the lips tucks in. Carefully use the tool once more to remove foam from the nostrils. Do not remove too much foam -- just enough to give depth to the nose. Then use a speed septum tool to make the septums under the nose. Make sure the speed septums are centered right under the nose.

Installing Earliners in the Cape

• Remove the ear cartilage in the ear. Insert the earliners that came with the mannequin. Check to see if they fit properly. If the earliners are too big, trim them along the sides until they fit snugly into the ear skin. Once you are satisfied with the fit, cover the earliners with adhesive and insert into the ear skin. Adjust the skin around the earliners to get the correct hairline pattern.

Fixing the Antlers

• Pull the cape over the face of the mannequin to fix the antlers. The skull plate of the antlers should sit properly on top of the mannequin. If this does not happen, trim the skull plate bottom. Place the antlers on the cape to see whether the skin can go under the bur of the antlers. Check the position of the antlers. They should not be fixed too far at the back of the head or too close to the eyes. Use an adhesive to fix the antlers to the head of the mannequin. Bondo works well. Once the antlers are stuck, drill four tiny holes to screw the antlers to the mannequin. Have two holes towards the front and two towards the rear and use 3-inch drywall screws to fix the antlers firmly.

Setting the Eyes

• Pull the deer head skin from the face, and use modeling clay at the back of eyes to set the plastic eyes. Make sure the pupils of the eyes are parallel to the ground. This will give an illusion that the deer is looking straight ahead. Use clay to fill the gaps around the eyes. Smooth the clay with water to get an even finish.

  Make a thin roll of clay, around one inch in length, and place in around each eye so you can form the eyelids with it later. Smear clay on the grooves that you made earlier. Place some clay where you made grooves for the tear ducts.

Fixing the Deer Head Skin on the Mannequin

• Apply hide paste all over the mannequin using rubber gloves. Do not put the paste on the grooves you dug out for the tear ducts and lips. Slide the deer head skin on the mannequin. Concentrate on the face to properly fit the skin into the grooves. Line the skin correctly with the grooves. Use a taxidermist's tucking tool to get the fit right. Then shift to the rest of the cape.

  Once the fit is correct, use a 6-inch needle and thread to sew the incision at the top of the head. This incision can be Y-shaped, T-shaped or V-shaped, and was made when you removed the cape from the skull of the deer. Brush the hair of the deer head in the correct direction until it looks natural and smooth.

  Fix the mounted deer head onto a wooden plaque using a strong adhesive. Allow adhesive to dry completely, about two weeks, before mounting the deer head on the wall. Remember to paint the deer head so the inside of the ears has flesh color. Use Modge Podge on the nose to give texture and then paint it black.