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Repairing a Seam on a Lined Jacket

One of the benefits of adding a lining to a garment is that it encases all the seams between the garment and the lining. A lining gives a jacket a finished look and makes it sturdier and more comfortable to wear, but it makes it difficult to access a damaged seam to repair it. Seams in the outer layer of a lined garment must be repaired through an opening in the lining.

Repairing an Open Seam in the Lining
- An open seam in the lining is repaired by top stitching along the edge of the old seam. Start the repair by pulling the damaged section of the lining toward the inside of the jacket, away from the outer layer. Straighten the seam by pulling the ends out to each side. Tuck the raw edges of the fabric into the open seam, folding the fabric along the seam lines. Sew the folded edges together by stitching 1/16 inch away from the folds. Begin and end the seam 1 inch beyond the opening in the seam.
Repairing an Open Seam in the Jacket
- Open a seam in the lining near the damaged area using a seam ripper. Allow yourself plenty of working room by making the opening in the lining at least 1 inch longer on each side than the damaged part of the seam. Pull the damaged part of the seam out through the opening and repair it, stitching along the original seam line. Sew the opening in the lining closed as described in the first section.
Repairing a Topstitched Seam
- Some jackets have a lining that extends all the way to the edge of the outer fabric. There is usually a row of topstitching near the edge on these garments. The topstitching flattens the edge and keeps the lining from showing when the garment is worn. To repair this type of seam, you must first remove the topstitching with a seam ripper, then tuck the damaged part of the seam into the opening and repair the seam with a new line of topstitching. If the damage is too extensive for this type of repair, open the lining and repair the seam as described above.
Repairing a Hem
- Some linings hang loose at the hem and are attached to the garment at the seams with short lengths of cord. Repair a hem on such a garment by cutting the cord near the seam on the garment side and pulling the lining out of the way. Pin the hem up and hand sew it in place. Create an invisible hem by making very small stitches on the outside of the garment, picking up only two threads with the needle. The stitches on the inside will be larger, about 1/4 inch wide. Hand sew the end of the cord back in place or sew in a new cord.

Sewing