How to Make a Sweatshirt With an Applique

Preparation

• 1

  Cut out sweatshirt pattern pieces. Purchased patterns are printed on sheets of tissue paper. Cut on lines as indicated for individual pieces. Alternatively, take apart an old sweatshirt and lay the pieces out on sheets of tissue paper or freezer paper. Trace around the pieces. Add a 1/2-inch seam allowance to each piece.

• 2

  Place pattern pieces on fabric and cut out sweatshirt pieces. When laying out pattern pieces, make certain to lay pieces with the grain running from the neckline to the bottom. Sleeves are laid out so grain runs from the shoulder to the wrist.

• 3

  Cut out appliqué pattern pieces. Appliqué patterns are line drawings. This type of pattern is available at sewing supply stores or departments, or they can be made from children's coloring book drawings.

• 4

  Pin your appliqué pattern pieces to fabrics you have selected for your appliqué. Fleece, satin or woven fabric may be used for appliqués. Preshrink fabrics to avoid puckers on your finished sweatshirt when it is washed. Cut out pieces, adding a 1/4-inch seam allowance to each piece.

• 5

  Prepare the appliqué pieces for application to your sweatshirt. Clip curves with your scissors to allow the seam allowance to turn under. Cut tips off of corners of appliqué pieces to remove bulk. When using woven fabrics, spray fabric starch into a bowl. Using an artist's brush, paint starch on the seam allowance of a pattern piece. Turn under the seam allowance and iron the appliqué piece.

• 6

  Lay the appliqué pieces on your sweatshirt in the desired pattern. Appliqué pieces to the sweatshirt using a hidden appliqué stitch, a blanket stitch or a zig-zag stitch. Hidden stitches slide the needle in and out of the seam allowance so they will not show. A blanket stitch shows on top and is made with embroidery floss. To zig-zag appliqué pieces in place, use iron-on interfacing on the back of the sweatshirt piece to avoid stretching the fleece while sewing.

Completion

• 7

  Put your sweatshirt together. With right sides together, sew the side and shoulder seams. Fold each of your sleeves lengthwise, with right sides together, and stitch. Trim all seams to 1/4 inch and zig-zag. Set sleeves into the shirt. Match the shirt side seams with the seams in the sleeves. Trim and zig-zag the seams.

• 8

  Finish the neckline, cuffs and bottom edge of your sweatshirt with the trim of your choice. Tubular rib knit makes a snug fit. To use rib knit, cut lengths of the rib knit to dimensions that are comfortable to you around your neck, wrists and hips. Sew each length of rib knit at the narrow ends with right sides together. Trim the seam and zig-zag.

• 9

  Divide each piece of rib knit into fourths and mark with pins. The seam allowance marks one quarter. Sew the neckline trim to the neck opening by placing the rib knit seam at the center of the back of the sweatshirt. Stretch the rib knit evenly and match the shoulder seam with the next pin. The next pin goes in the center of the front of the sweatshirt and the last pin goes at the other shoulder seam. Stitch in place. Trim and zig-zag. Cuff and bottom pieces are applied in a similar manner. For a narrow trim instead of rib knit, use lycra knit, a bathing-suit-type fabric.