How to Alter the Length of a Trench Sleeve

Shorten the Sleeve Length

• 1

  Try on the trench coat. If you plan to wear the coat over a suit, put on the suit or other bulky clothes. The clothes worn underneath the trench coat can affect how the sleeves hang. Mark the preferred sleeve hemline with tailor̵7;s chalk.

• 2

  Remove the stitches that join the garment and sleeve lining near the sleeve opening. Use a seam ripper or embroidery cutters.

• 3

  Tuck under and pin the sleeve fabric at the hemline marked by the tailor̵7;s chalk. Pin the lining so it does not get caught in the sleeve hem.

• 4

  Thread a hand-sewing needle. Sew a temporary basting or running stitch close to the sleeve fold. Remove the pins from the coat sleeve.

• 5

  Press the sleeve and try on the coat. Make any necessary adjustments before you stitch.

• 6

  Mark the hem allowance with tailor̵7;s chalk. Allow for a 1 ½-inch to 2-inch hem. Trim the excess fabric above the chalked line.

• 7

  Hand-sew with catch-stitches to join the back of the hem allowance with the sleeve interior. Insert the threaded needle into the underside of the hem allowance near the trimmed edge. Bring up the needle and insert it into the sleeve.

• 8

  Bring the needle under one or two garment threads and cross over to the underside of the hem allowance to the right of the first insertion point. The needle points to the left. The catch stitches progress from left to right. This stitch resembles an ̶0;X.̶1;

• 9

  Gently pull the thread every six or seven stitches to bring the hem allowance closer to the sleeve.

Hem the Sleeve Lining

• 10

  Unpin the sleeve lining. Let the lining dangle in the sleeve.

• 11

  Mark the sleeve hemline with tailor̵7;s chalk. The sleeve lining should overlap or hang lower than the top of the coat̵7;s hem allowance for ease.

• 12

  Fold under the sleeve lining at the marked hemline. Pin the folded hem allowance.

• 13

  Sew a temporary basting or running stitch close to the fold. Remove the pins.

• 14

  Mark a 1-inch hem allowance with tailor̵7;s chalk. Trim off the excess lining above the chalk markings.

• 15

  Pin the sleeve lining to the inside of the coat sleeve. Allow some slack so the sleeve lining softly overhangs. The folded edge of the coat sleeve will show below the folded hem edge of the sleeve lining.

• 16

  Slip-stitch the lining to the coat sleeve. Pass the needle along the inside fold of the lining. Pull the thread and insert the needle under one or two garment threads on the garment sleeve.

• 17

  Pull the needle through and insert in the inside fold of the lining. Bring the needle up a quarter-inch to the left. Work from right to left. A line of short, straight stitches forms under one folded edge. A line of shorter stitches appear under the opposite hem allowance. Pull the thread gently to minimize puckering on the right side of the sleeve.

• 18

  Remove the temporary basting threads from the sleeve and the sleeve lining.

• 19

  Press the sleeve and try on the coat. Make any adjustments before you work on the remaining sleeve.