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How to Sew a Horsehair Hem

Hemlines help shape and support a garment̵7;s structure. For example, a hemline sewn with flexible horsehair braid adds a graceful fullness to skirts and dresses. Horsehair braid contains a ribbon of nylon threads. A drawstring at the top edge helps contour the hem allowance. Purchase packages or pieces cut from rolls at a sewing supply store. Some suppliers may offer colors that match your garment. The finished hemline shows only a fine line of top-stitching on the garment̵7;s right side.

Things You'll Need

  • Horsehair braid
  • Iron
  • Tailor̵7;s chalk or washable pencil
  • Scissors
  • Needle and thread
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Instructions

    • 1

      Steam press the horsehair braid to reduce creases.

    • 2

      Mark the hemline on the garment̵7;s right side with tailor̵7;s chalk.

    • 3

      Place the garment right-side up on a flat surface. The garment̵7;s underside will face the flat surface.

    • 4

      Trim the hem allowance to 1/4 inch below the hemline.

    • 5

      Align the top of the horsehair braid at the hemline, beginning at a side or back seam. Tuck under the starting end to line up with the side or back seam.

    • 6

      Thread a needle and sew temporary, straight basting or running stitches to attach the braid close to the hem markings.

    • 7

      Bring the garment and braid to the sewing machine. Select a straight stitch on the machine̵7;s pattern selector.

    • 8

      Edge stitch the braid̵7;s top edge. Tuck under the braid̵7;s last end to abut the starting end. This finishing end will also line up with the side or back seam.

    • 9

      Fold the braid along the hemline to the underside or wrong side of the garment. The braid will not show on the right side.

    • 10

      Edge stitch the braid on the garment̵7;s wrong side, joining all the layers. If you prefer, flip the garment and top stitch the garment̵7;s right side close to the hem fold through all the layers. Backstitch a few stitches at the end to secure the threads.

    • 11

      Thread a needle. Tack the braid̵7;s abutted edges and seam allowances together with a cross-stitch. Use two straight stitches angled to form an X shape. Knot the thread. Hide the thread̵7;s tail in the seam allowance. Trim the excess thread.

    • 12

      Whipstitch the abutted edges below the cross-stitch. Knot the thread and trim.

    • 13

      Remove the temporary basting thread.

    • 14

      Press the hem carefully using the heat setting that best suits the fabric.


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