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What Does Grade Mean in Sewing?

Knowing how a commonly heard word is used in a particular application aids in communication when learning something new. Webster's Dictionary provides definitions for this word that help in understanding the multiple meanings of "grade" when used in sewing. In sewing, grading a seam means "to level off to a smooth or sloping surface." It is also a verb when referring to grading a pattern, and means "to arrange in a scale or series." When referring to fabric grade and sewing-machine grade, it is a noun meaning "a position in a scale of ranks or qualities."

To Grade a Seam
- Seams can be graded to reduce bulkiness.
  
  A way to eliminate bulkiness and the "homemade" look of a garment is to grade the seams that will not be pressed open. After sewing a seam, half of the seam allowance is trimmed away. For construction seams, grade the part of the seam allowance that lies against the outside of the garment. Grade half of the facing allowance if the seam is a facing seam.
To Grade a Pattern
- After a pattern is designed, it must be altered for different sizes.
  
  After the initial pattern for a garment is made, it must be graded (altered) for other sizes. Patterns are changed at various points according to mathematical formulas to create new patterns for the garment in larger or smaller sizes. The individual who makes a pattern in different sizes is called a pattern grader. Grading can also be done by computers.
Fabric Grade
- Intricate fabrics are more costly to produce.
  
  Fabrics are assigned grades that reflect how much it costs to produce a particular fabric, rather than the quality or durability of the fabric. Intricate patterns in the fabric or more expensive fibers raise the grade, because they require more labor and take longer to produce. Higher-grade fabrics can have drawbacks, such as a higher tendency to snag or wrinkle.
Sewing-Machine Grade
- Tailors use commercial and professional grade sewng machines.
  
  Commercial- and professional-grade sewing machines are designed for use in classrooms, small businesses, by serious home sewers and for sewing with heavy fabrics. These sewing machines are more durable than standard machines designed for home sewing, or they perform special applications. Industrial-grade machines are highly specialized to perform a single action, such as a pants leg seam, over and over. These workhorses excel in speed and durability, but they sew only with a straight stitch and have no buttonhole stitch.

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