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Blind Stitch Hemmer Instructions

Nearly all zigzag sewing machines manufactured since the 1970s come equipped with an automatic blind hemming stitch. Refer to the instruction book that is supplied with the machine, or examine closely the examples of stitches printed somewhere on most machines. The blind hem stitch will look like a straight stitch with one zig to the left every few stitches, or it may look like a tiny zigzag stitch with one larger zig to the left every few stitches. Think of the zig to the left as a "bite."

Practice the Stitch Without a Hem
- Select a presser foot that will accommodate a zigzag stitch. On scrap fabric of a similar weight to the project, stitch in a straight line to determine what the stitch looks like. In the blind hemmer stitch, the interval between "bites" will be inside the garment, along a finished edge. The "bites," the zig left, will secure the actual hem, which is formed by a fold. The stitches between "bites" may be adjusted for length, and the zigs or "bites" too can be adjusted in both width and length. Thinner fabric will require a smaller, narrower, stitch than thicker fabric.
Practice Making a Hem
- Finish the edge of the garment with narrow hemming, overcasting, pinking or machine stitching to prevent the edge from raveling. Turn up the desired hem, and pin vertically every two or three inches. Turn the pinned hem again so that the finished edge is on the right and the fold of the hem is to the left. Pin again horizontally about 3/4 inch above the fold with the fold aligned about 1/4 inch from the edge. Remove the vertical pins. Place the presser foot on the finished edge, and sew for several inches, observing where the interval stitches fall and where the "bite" actually secures the fold. The interval stitches should not touch the fold, and the "bite" should be very shallow, just catching a thread or two of the fold.
Hem the Garment
- Select a thread color as close as possible to the color of the fabric. Having experimented with making the hem, set the stitch length and width. Slowly stitch the hem, taking care with the placement of the stitches. Any time the interval stitches touch the fold, there will be an unfortunate crease formed in the garment. These stitches must be removed. Conversely, if the "bite" stitch grabs too much of the fold, it will show on the outside and need to be removed.
Inspect the Blind Hem and Press
- Before pressing, check for any errors so that the stitches may be removed and replaced. Follow by steam pressing the hem from the back, and finish by pressing from the front. A press cloth used on either side or both sides will ensure that a ridge will not show from the outside. Use the blind hemmer enough, and never make a hand-sewn hem again.

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