What Is Dobby Fabric?

Significance

• The term dobby fabric can refer to any type of cloth that uses a dobby weave. Dobby weaving machines raise or lower the warp threads, or those that run the length of the fabric, during the weaving process to create patterns such as stripes, checks and designs. Dobby fabrics have more texture than plain weave fabrics, but are not as intricate as jacquard fabrics.

Types

• Dobby fabric can be woven from several types of fibers, such as cotton, nylon, silk or rayon. Some dobby fabrics use a combination of materials, to obtain the strengths and qualities of both. Cotton pique fabric has a dobby weave, and works well for clothing and home decor projects that need a textured stripe or pattern. Birdseye cotton is a dobby fabric with a diamond pattern, commonly used for cloth diapers and kitchen towels. Moss crepe is a dressy fabric usually woven from rayon, but finer versions use silk. Barathea is usually made from silk or rayon but may also be mixed with wool or cotton and used for dresses, dress pants and neckties. Matelassé fabric made from cotton, polyester or chenille is a thick, textured fabric used for home decor, bed coverings and handbags.

Benefits

• Dobby fabrics are popular for clothing and home decor projects because of their unique textures and because they can be dyed in many different colors. Dobby fabrics such as birdseye cotton are popular for diapers because they are soft and have excellent absorbency, while dobby fabrics like cotton pique work well for shirts because of their slight stretch and low tendency to wrinkle. Heavy cotton dobby fabric is thicker than plain weave broadcloth but soft enough for home decor projects like pillow and upholstery covers. Matelassé is so thick and highly textured that it appears quilted, even with a single layer of fabric.

Features

• Dobby fabrics, especially cotton ones, come in a wide variety of patterns and colors. For example, eQuilter.com offers dobby fabrics with patterns such as crests, medallions, fans, fish, waves, floral patterns, Japanese characters, stars, swirls and stripes in colors such as black, brown and indigo. Fabricandart.com carries cotton dobby fabrics with stripes, swirls, dots, flower blossoms and rabbits in colors including brown, indigo, turquoise, lavender, dark green and burgundy. Specialty stores may carry dobby fabrics in Hawaiian styles, or in stripes and checks for ethnic fabrics.

Expert Insight

• Although most major fabric stores carry a limited selection of dobby fabrics, such as basic cotton pique, online retailers that offer specialty fabrics for quilting and sewing enthusiasts may carry dobby fabric in a variety of styles and patterns. For example, eQuilter.com offers about 15 different Japanese dobby fabrics for approximately $12.50 per yard, and Fabricandart.com also offers cotton dobby fabric in a variety of colors for about $12.50 per yard. Sewing enthusiasts should use a fine tipped needle for lightweight dobby fabrics made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibers, and a denim needle when working with heavy dobby fabrics for home decor.