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How to Make a Parallelogram Mount

Parallelogram mounts are a backyard astronomer's best friend. They hold your binoculars in place you while you watch the stars from the comfort of a deck chair or standing up. This means you can stargaze for hours without having to worry about straining your neck and shoulders. Parallelogram mounts come in many styles and sizes. Some support very heavy binoculars especially designed for astronomy and require massive tripod stands. Others, built to support opera to hunting style binoculars, can be clamped to tabletops and deck chairs.

Things You'll Need

  • Dimensional lumber, 3/4 inches by 4 inches by 48 inches
  • Circular saw
  • T-square
  • Compass
  • Jigsaw
  • Wood screws, 1 inch
  • Power drill
  • Drill bit, 1/2 inch
  • Driving bit, Phillips head
  • 1-by-1 inch boards, 6 feet long, 2
  • Bolts, 1/2 inch thick, 2 1/2 inches long
  • Washers, 1/2 inch
  • Nuts, 1/2 inch
  • C-hook
  • Lead pouch weight
  • Duct tape, black
  • C-clamps, 4 inches, 2
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Instructions

  1. Vertical Arm and Deck Chair Mount

    • 1

      Put on your safety goggles. Cut two pieces of dimensional lumber with the circular saw, one piece to 12 inches, the other piece to 4 inches. The 12-inch piece is the vertical arm, the 4-inch piece is its foot.

    • 2

      Place the vertical arm on your work surface. Using the t-square, draw a line across the 4-inch side, 2 inches from the top.

    • 3

      Place the compass at the line's midpoint. Draw a 2-inch semicircle touching the parallel bar's top. Cut along the semicircle with the jigsaw.

    • 4

      Line up your T-square with the midpoint of the vertical arm's bottom. Draw a pencil line all the way to the top. Counting from the top, place pencil marks on that line at 2 inches and 6 inches. Place the drill bit in your power drill. Drill completely through these holes.

    • 5

      Line up the vertical arm's bottom with the center of the foot, so that both pieces form a T-shape. Secure the pieces with two 1-inch wood screws.

    Swinging Mechanism

    • 6

      Cut three pieces of one by one: 9 inches, 3 1/2 feet and 5 feet long. Place pencil marks along the center axes of all lengths of wood: at 3/4 inches and 8 1/4 inches on the 9-inch piece, at 3/4 inches and 3 feet on the 3 1/2 foot piece and at 3/4 inches and 3 feet on the 5 inch piece. Drill completely through these marks.

    • 7

      Cut two pieces of dimensional lumber with the circular saw, one 2 inches long, the other 4 inches long. Place them together at the 4-inch sides, so that they form an L-shape. Fasten them together with four 1-inch screws.

    • 8

      Slide a washer onto a 2 1/2-inch bolt. Insert the bolt into the vertical bar's bottom hole. Slide two more washers onto the bolt. Slide the 5-foot piece's 3-foot hole onto the bolt. Add another washer. Finger-tighten the nut.

    • 9

      Slide a washer onto a 2 1/2-inch bolt. Insert the bolt into the vertical bar's top hole. Slide two more washers onto the bolt. Slide the 3 1/2-foot piece's 3-foot hole onto the bolt. Add another washer. Finger-tighten the nut.

    • 10

      Slide a washer onto a 2 1/2-inch bolt. Insert the bolt into the 5-foot piece's free hole. Add two washers. Slide the 9-inch piece onto the bolt. Add another washer. Finger-tighten the nut. Connect the 9-inch piece's free end with the 3 1/2-foot piece's free end the same way.

    Binocular Mount and Counterweight

    • 11

      Screw the L-shape to the 9-inch piece with two wood screws at the L's short side. The L-shape must be flush with 9-inch piece's top and on the outside of the parallelogram. Screw a c-hook into the bottom of the L's long side.

    • 12

      Place the lead weight pouch on the 5 foot piece's free end. Fasten it with duct tape.

    • 13

      Clamp the parallelogram mount to a tabletop or deck chair with two C-claps. Hang the binoculars from the C-hook.


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