Things You'll Need
Instructions
Keep cup-making easy by understanding three basic elements of molding. First is the use of a hardwood dowel for dipping: Hardwood takes a smoother finish and resists absorbing the melted wax, preventing the wax from sticking to the dipping stick as well. The shape (like an inverted water tumbler with a wide top and a narrower bottom) increases the ease of removal, slipping from the stick without prolonged drag and friction. Soaking the stick thoroughly in water again helps avoid the absorption of the wax and creates a moist, lubricated layer between the wood and the wax. These three details, combined with sufficient cooling after dipping, make removal of the cups possible without damaging your product.
Soak the end of the dipping stick in water. Hot water will penetrate the wood more quickly, making the wood more resistant to wax penetration later. Begin soaking at least half an hour before you want to start dipping cells.
Heat the bee's wax to the point of melting. If you are using a heating device that can be set to a specific temperature, the melting point of bee's wax is 147 degrees F (64 degrees C). There are a number of approaches to melting the wax. You can use an electric frying pan, or you can use a double boiler for a more cautious approach to heating. Whatever method you use should permit you sufficient room to lower your dipping stick into the melted wax and remove it without hanging up on the sides of the heating container.
Dip the tip of the dipping stick 3/8-inch deep into the wax bath. Remove and allow to cool for a few seconds. Dip again, cool again and dip again. Dip the wax-covered dipping stick into ice water for a few seconds, until the wax is completely chilled.
Remove the new wax cell from the tip of the dipping stick with as little pressure as possible, with a gentle twisting motion. Place the wax cell on a plate to dry.
Continue the process as many times as needed to achieve the number of cells you want to use for grafting, plus some spares.