Things You'll Need
Instructions
Cut the bottom out of the 10-foot barrel and turn it upside down. Place a 2-by-2-foot wood frame on the rim of the barrel so that the ends of the frame touch the edge of the barrel. Tear and stretch the pantyhose so that it covers the entire frame, then place the bug screen on top. This contraption serves as a filtering device.
Place the pipe nipple in the 2-inch-by-30-inch OD exhaust tube, a type of stainless-steel exhaust tube with a thin wall. Push the exhaust tube into the bung of the 55-gallon barrel.
Screw the street elbow into the bib valve. Push the clear vinyl tube into the bib valve. Run this connection from the top of the 55-gallon barrel to the 20-micron bag filter that's placed in the bung of the 30-gallon barrel. Place the suction tube of the positive-displacement hand pump in the opposite bung of the 30-gallon barrel. Connect the cartridge filter to the end of the positive-displacement hand pump so that the cartridge hangs a few inches from the edge of the barrel.
Pour the contaminated oil into the 10-gallon barrel. Although you can pour several gallons at a time, don't pour so much that any of the barrels overflow. The oil will work its way through the device you've assembled. When clear, dry oil settles in the 55-gallon barrel, it's ready for processing.
Pump the clean oil into a fuel tank with a positive-displacement hand pump. Depending on the size of your fuel tanks, you may fill more than one. Continue pumping until you've retrieved all of the clean fuel. Although there are other methods that involve the use of heat, don't heat the oil that you're processing with the settling method. Because contaminants such as animal fat weigh more than clean oil, the animal fat settles at the bottom ̵2; the clean, dry oil rises to the top.