What Are Ocean Waves Caused By?

Science of Waves

• Waves are actually energy passing through the water caused by other forces. Oscillations in the water's surface, caused by friction or a force driving energy across the top of the water, creates a rolling motion as it disturbs the surface. In deep water, the water does not push forward with the wave, because of the depth of the energy rolls through the water. In shallow water, the close proximity to the bottom pushes the energy up, making the wave rise out of the water and toward the shore.

Wind

• The friction of wind passing over the surface of water pushes the water in the direction of the wind, causing waves. Storm fronts cause some of the largest wave action, which is a reason avid surfers watch global weather for the largest storm system to chase giant waves. At sea, weather patterns can cause waves that travel long distances, once the energy is put in motion. The largest waves exist where wind consistently blows in one direction, and are the least active in areas where wind is relatively calm.

Geological Forces

• Tidal waves are a prime example of how geologic forces can cause waves, from those that are non-threatening, to massive destructive waves that can devastate entire coast lines. The heavy disturbance on a land mass, with a shore line or the bottom of the ocean, sends out a shock wave of energy that can travel long distances and push massive amounts of water. It is also shown that volcanic action and massive landslides in ancient history caused massive Tsunamis that act in the same way, pushing water long distances that rise to massive waves as the bottom rises to more shallow waters.

Solar and Other Forces

• Tides have some effect on waves; the energy of the currents pushing water in specific directions can deflect oncoming waves from another energy source. These forces can cause further water disturbance and irregular-shaped waves. The solar forces on the earth indirectly cause waves, as they affect currents and create weather. Where water is warmer and the ocean heats up, weather such as a Typhoon occurs, that can create large waves that scatter in all directions.