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How to Determine the Wavelength at a Vertical Breakwater

In the sea, waves are created by wind blowing across the surface of the water. The wavelength is the distance the wave will travel in one cycle --- from peak to peak or from trough to trough. In practice, observers of the ocean find it easier to identify the top of a wave rather than its bottom.

Things You'll Need

Several people
Tape measure
Notepad and pencil

Instructions

- 1
  Position observers along the breakwater so that they are able to view waves passing along one side of it. Calculations will be easier when there is a fairly large swell and little wind. Check the local weather forecast or surf report beforehand.
- 2
  Tell the observers to raise their hands when the highest point of a wave, known as the crest, passes directly in front of them. Their hands should be lowered as the wave passes. Observers may need a little practice observing the waves beforehand, especially in choppy conditions.
- 3
  Watch the observers' hands. When two people have their hands raised, shout "stop," and measure the distance between them.
- 4
  Repeat step 3 at least 10 times. The more measurements that are taken, the more accurate the wavelength estimation will be.
- 5
  Calculate wavelength by adding the measurements together and dividing the total by the number of measurements taken.

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