Hobbies And Interests
Things You'll Need
Instructions
Insert a freewheel removal tool into the slots in the freewheel. BMX-style single freewheels have four large lugs that engage the tool, but some older single freewheels may have only two relatively small ones. The latter type is easily stripped. Use an axle nut to hold the tool in place and turn it counterclockwise with a large wrench. Remember to back off the axle nut as the freewheel comes loose.
Remove a freewheel with stripped engagement slots by first removing the outer bearing cover. It looks like a large ring set into the side of the freewheel with two holes for a pin spanner. Turn it counterclockwise with a large pin spanner, or use a pin punch and a hammer to tap it loose. Lift the outer freewheel body, exposing the inner body that is threaded onto the hub. Use a large pair of slip joint pliers to turn the inner body counterclockwise to remove it. Alternatively, put the freewheel body in a bench vise and turn the wheel.
Remove a track cog by first removing the outer lock ring with a ring spanner. The lock ring on a track hub has a left-hand thread, so it removes in a clockwise direction. On a converted road hub, the lock ring (if present) has a right-hand thread just like a cog or freewheel. Examine the threads under magnification if there's any doubt about which kind of hub you're using. Remove the cog with a chain whip by turning it counterclockwise.
Heat the cog with a propane torch if any sign of epoxy appears on the threads. Epoxy can be overcured and weakened at high temperatures. Apply the torch just long enough to make the cog too hot to touch, but be careful to avoid overheating that can liquefy the bearing grease and possibly cause a fire. Use a chain whip or a bench vise to turn the part off the hub, but work quickly before it can cool down. Even when done carefully, this will probably necessitate repacking the hub bearings.