Hobbies And Interests
Materials
Before the 1950s, many baby dolls were partially made from composition and porcelain, materials that were fragile and easily damaged in the hands of a child. Many were handmade and hand sewn. The early dolls had hair made from human hair and faces hand painted with lead paints, toxic to children. With the advent of the 50s came various new materials that weren't breakable. Baby dolls were being made from heavy weight rubber and vinyl that were pliable and had "magic skin," which made them feel like real babies. There were less and less being made by hand in favor of manufactured dolls. Some baby dolls made crying sounds and others had tears that dribbled from the doll's eyes, mimicking the sounds and actions of real babies. The dolls were made with poseable arms and legs and a single-piece body with a separate head.
Identification
As a collector, you'll probably want to know who made your dolls and when. The doll maker's marks are generally molded into the upper back or on the nape of her neck. Unfortunately, many dolls weren't well-marked in the early 50s, leaving identification up to experts who have extensive knowledge of the period. For those dolls made by hand as well as those manufactured in larger lots, there are other ways to identify a doll. One way to learn who the maker is to examine the doll̵7;s face. Although manufactured body molds were similar, faces were quite different and unique, especially those that were still being hand painted. Each doll maker had her own style and distinctive trademarks. Another way to identify a doll's maker is by the style of the hairpiece, which often possess certain unique characteristics, helping the collector easily identify the doll. Again, handmade wigs reflected the doll maker̵7;s individual style, and even the manufacturers had individual ways of attaching hair and wigs to help identify the maker. For instance, wig materials may help you recognize a maker as well as how they are attached to the head. Additional techniques for identifying dolls are looking at the location of facial dimples, examining the style of the walking mechanism and inspecting the doll mold seams. It takes time to learn these tricks, but the best way to familiarize yourself with them is to study books and websites with photos of dolls from the era that you're interested in.
Estimating Value
There are various collectors' price guides available to help you estimate the value of your doll. Certain manufacturers from the 50s and 60s produced better quality dolls that have held their value through the years. Some of these are Arranbee, Madame Alexander, American Character, Effanbee, Nancy Ann Storybook and Vogue. The other factor used in evaluating the estimated value of your doll is her condition. Every detail of the doll's condition should be as close to original and perfection as possible. For example, a doll that was preserved in its original box, never handled and never opened will be worth far more than one that was well loved and has lost much of its original luster.
Caring for Dolls
It may seem obvious that packing a doll away safely will preserve it; however, poorly packed dolls will lose their value due to damage incurred from packing. Never use mothballs around a doll because the doll's clothing and hair will absorb the noxious odor. Don't tightly pack dolls because they will be crushed and the pressure may damage clothing and the doll's body. Stuff the doll's skirt with tissue paper to protect it when you pack her away. If you have dolls with moving parts, such as baby dolls of the 50s, unpack them and move them occasionally to make sure that parts don't get stuck in place, such as sleeping eyelids and walking mechanisms. When dolls are on display, avoid placing them in bright sunlight that may fade their clothing or discolor their skin. Enclose them with other dolls in a display case with a glass front or keep them in individual glass cases to protect them from dust and house odors.