Hobbies And Interests
Things You'll Need
Instructions
Loosen the two screws that affix the exhaust pipe and the cooling header to the engine encasement. Pull the screws from the exhaust pipe and header, then disconnect them from the engine.
Release the three screws that hold the EZ-start assembly to the engine. The EZ-start includes four gears and an electric motor all housed in a metal encasement. Detach the entire assembly from the engine once you loosen the screws.
Detach the 5.0 E-clip from the groove on the end of the crankshaft, then pull the clutch bell off the crankshaft.
Loosen the flywheel nut from the tip of the crankshaft with an 8 mm socket. Insert a flathead screwdriver into one of the slots on the cone washer and then pry it off of the crankshaft. Remove the cone washer from the crankshaft and set it aside.
Loosen the glow plug from inside the cooling head. Remove the four screws that fasten the back-plate of the engine and then separate the back plate from the crankcase.
Loosen the five head bolts and then detach the cooling head from the engine case.
Access the bottom of the metal sleeve through the rear gap in the crankcase. Use a wooden utensil to pry the sleeve upward from the bottom and then pull it out of the engine encasement and set it aside.
Spin the crank until the rod and piston are at the 12 o'clock position of their rotation. This is also referred to as top dead center or TDC. Slide the rod off the crank pin using a pair of needle nose pliers, then pull the rod and piston vertically through the top of the crankcase.
Press the tip of the pilot shaft out through the backside of the crankcase. Unscrew the 3.0NL, located beneath the base of the carburetor and then remove the carburetor from the crankcase.
Spray the crankcase and bearings with denatured alcohol or electric motor spray. Blow the components with compressed air to dry everything out.
Assess the bearings for damage. Inspect the exhaust O-ring gasket and the back plate O-ring gasket for any signs of wear or damage. Replace any necessary components.
Drip a couple of drops of synthetic motor oil into the bearings and then inspect the crankshaft for corrosion or damage (specifically near the intake port). Twist the crank pin and test that it rotates smoothly without any space to wiggle.
Insert the crankshaft through the crank ball-bearings and then inspect the carburetor O-rings and the rubber throttle arm for damage.
Loosen the high-speed needle until it detaches from the engine case and then cleanse the high-speed needle case and the carburetor body with denatured alcohol.
Blow compressed air to dry all the engine parts and then insert the high-speed needle into the needle housing and tighten it all the way. Unscrew the mixture setting of the high-speed needle until it is four-turns out from fully closed (a factory-recommended setting). Slide the carburetor into the crankcase. Apply pressure while tightening the pinch bolt
Apply a drop of oil into the wrist pin bore on the piston prior to inserting the wrist pin. Install the connecting rod into the piston with the piston skirt relief and the oiler hole lined up. Align the wrist pin bore inside the rod with the wrist pin bore in the piston and then insert the wrist pin into the piston through the larger opening.
Clasp the wrist pin clip (G clip), by securing it into the groove on the piston's wrist-pin bore. Face the connecting rod's oiler hole toward the crankshaft and lower the piston and connecting rod down through the top of the engine case. Apply some oil to the crank pin and then slide the connecting rod over the crank pin. Once installed, spin the crank pin until it is centered at the bottom of the crankcase.
Lubricate the piston and insert the sleeve down into the engine case, pushing it as far down as possible. Key the slot at the back of the sleeve into the pin located at the back of the engine case opening.
Slip the copper head gasket over the sleeve. Press the cooling head flush onto the sleeve and then screw the five head bolts at an even pace to ensure tight fit. Tighten one corner bolt a full turn and then cross diagonally to the opposite corner bolt and tighten it an equal amount. Repeat this process until all screws are snug. Attach the starter shaft and the back plate to the engine encasement.
Rotate the starter shaft while applying pressure toward the crankshaft to key the starter shaft into the crank pin. Connect the back plate and the engine case and then tighten their connection with four screws. Screw in the replacement glow plug (3232X is recommended for the TRX 3.3).
Install the split cone washer over the pilot shaft so that the larger opening faces the engine encasement. Position the flywheel over the pilot shaft and then connect it with the split cone washer. Tighten the flywheel nut until it touches the flywheel, applying 62 inch lbs. of torque against the flywheel.
Install the clutch shoes onto the flywheel and then key the flywheel pins to establish a connection with the holes in their respective clutch shoes. Cleanse and lubricate the two clutch-bell bearings and then situate a ball bearing into each side of the clutch bell. Install the clutch bell over the pilot shaft and then clasp the 5.0 E-clip.
Wash the roller clutch with denatured alcohol, lubricate it with a few drops of synthetic motor oil and then position the EZ-Start system over the starter shaft, which extends form the back-plate of the engine encasement. Secure the EZ-Start mechanism onto the encasement with three screws. Attach the exhaust header and pipe assembly back onto the rear of the engine case with the two mounting screws.